There’s something special about seeing Australia with someone you’ve shared a lifetime of memories with. For AAT Kings team member Michael Tolevski, travelling from the tropical Top End to the heart of the Red Centre on AAT Kings’ Northern Territory Dreaming 12-day tour was an opportunity to create a few more, this time with his mum by his side.
From the wetlands and rugged beauty of the north to the red earth of Central Australia, they took in some of the Northern Territory’s most remarkable sights.
Accessibility was also an important part of their journey, and they were pleased to find that many of the places they visited could be experienced together.
We caught up with Michael to hear about travelling the Northern Territory with his mum, the highlights they shared and the moments that made this a trip of a lifetime.
What sparked the idea for a Top End to Red Centre trip with your mum?
We were originally supposed to travel to Scandinavia and Spain but given the current geopolitical situation we decided to explore closer to home. The NT was chosen on a whim as a nice place to travel during Aussie winter.
How long was your trip and what was your route?
Northern Territory Dreaming was a 12-day small group guided holiday that started in Darwin and finished in Alice Springs. The internal flight from Darwin down to Alice was also included!
How accessible did you find the major stops (Kakadu, Katherine Gorge, Alice Springs, Uluru-Kata Tjuta)?
Most of the major sites were readily accessible on my walking frame, with flat pathways at the majority of locations. The only one I couldn’t manage was Walpa Gorge as the terrain was too rocky, even for someone who’s conquered Pompeii!
In what way did the guides help to make the journey a smooth one?
I can’t speak highly enough of both our Driver Guides, Jess East and Dave Cronin. They both went above and beyond each day, giving me a breakdown of the day’s touring and routes, as well as alternatives. We really do have the best guides in the business.
Do you have any tips for someone with accessibility needs planning a trip to the NT?
Be prepared to do some walking. Even though most of the paths are accessible, one still has to be physically fit and have enough stamina to walk long distances.
What was the most unforgettable moment of the whole trip?
My most magical moment was the Katherine Gorge Cruise. The majesty of the place, the sandstone cliffs that are as old as time itself – amazing! It makes you realise how lucky we are to live in a country with something so magnificent. There’s something spiritual about the place that will stay with me for a long time.
What was your mum’s favourite moment from the trip?
Mum’s favourite moment was the Kungkas Can Cook experience with Raylene Brown in Alice Springs. She really enjoyed learning about how Indigenous Australians source different foods and read the land to know what to harvest and when. The samples were tasty too – make sure to try the lemon myrtle jam.
What surprised you most about the Northern Territory?
The most surprising thing was the difference in landscape from the Top End to the Red Centre. You go from lush tropics and mangroves to red dirt dotted with spinifex grass, so long you can make rope from it. Mornings and evenings in the Red Centre are surprisingly cold – be sure to rug up.
How did the landscape change as you moved from Darwin down to Alice Springs?
Similarly to the above – wet tropics so lush that every patch of grass has its own ecosystem, then replaced by a land so dry the sun becomes a mirage as it reflects on its surface.
What’s a photo you took that you keep coming back to, and what’s the story behind it?
My mum is a lover of art, so a trip to the Field of Light was a bucket list item. We took a photo before sunrise with the lights illuminated behind us in hues of red, orange, and white. To see the smile on her face and excitement in her eyes was priceless.
What did this trip teach you that you didn’t expect to learn? Did the trip change how you think about outback or remote travel in general?
It taught me that our country is far older than we realise. I didn’t expect to have such an in-depth look at Indigenous culture and how different that culture can be depending on what part of Australia you find yourself in. What’s more, it was eye-opening to experience the vastness of the place – you must be made of tough stuff to call the NT home.
Kakadu is often described as spiritual or ancient-feeling — did it live up to that for you?
Absolutely – I’ll never forget the moment I had at Kakadu. I was waiting at the bottom of the Ubirr lookout while the rest of our group made their way up. As I waited, I was watching other visitors make the climb. I heard a world encyclopedia of languages that day. I was so proud of the fact that people had come from all over the world to see something in my birthplace. I felt immense pride being Australian.
Nitmiluk Gorge at sunrise or sunset — did you catch it at a special time of day, and what was that like?
At sunset! Watching the sunset between to sandstone cliffs, glowing in ethereal red. The only way to describe it is other-worldly.
What impressed you most about Kings Canyon?
I was most impressed by the breadth of geology in Kings Canyon. No two rocks are the same, and if you look closely, some even have different colored veins running through them.
Standing in front of Uluru for the first time — what was that moment like for you?
Standing in front of Uluru can only be described as a privilege. Photos don’t do it justice. It’s something that’s felt and experienced rather than seen.
What were your Red Centre highlights, and unmissable moments for someone else planning a trip there?
Uluru and Kings Canyon should be on everyone’s itinerary. You haven’t been to the Red Centre if you miss them. Be sure to check out Simpson’s Gap too – you won’t be disappointed.
What’s one thing you took away from the Karrke Indigenous Experience that stuck with you after the trip ended?
Peter and Natasha’s connection to the land can really be felt. They speak with such passion about their culture and way of life, it’s difficult not to feel emotional. They’re so thankful when people come and learn from them – and it was a pleasure to be taught.
After the gorges and waterfalls, how did it feel arriving in Alice Springs and seeing the red desert landscape for the first time?
I was pleasantly surprised, particularly by the weather in Alice. The photos make you think it’s going to be 40-degree days, but it’s actually quite chilly.
Simpsons Gap is a quieter, lesser-known stop — did it end up being an unexpected highlight?
Yes! Simpsons Gap is a beauty that deserves more attention. It’s one of those stops that leaves you feeling glad you saw it.
Would you do another trip like this together — and if so, where to next?
Absolutely! Ever since I started with TTC, Mum has been my travel buddy. I think I’ve inherited my curiosity and sense of adventure from her. New Zealand is looking like a clear favourite for next year.
What’s one thing about the Territory that photos just can’t capture?
The characters you meet along the way. If you’re ever in Pine Creek, be sure to have a meal at the pub and say hello to Brownie. He and his blue-tongued lizard, Bluey have some great stories.
Do you have any packing tips?
Be sure to pack layered clothing. One moment could be warm, and next, you’re feeling the wind chill. You never know what you’re going to get in the NT. That’s the beauty of it.
Book this tour here: Northern Territory Dreaming | AAT Kings AU